Jerusalem
The easiest way into the Old City is the light rail from the central bus station: about 10 minutes, and you step off right by Damascus Gate.
You do not need a car in Jerusalem. The light rail crosses the city from north to south along Jaffa Road, linking the central bus station, Machane Yehuda and the Old City, and from there everything is on foot. This page is a practical travel guide for planning a trip to Jerusalem: how to get there, what a ride costs and what to see, plus my personal recommendations for food, coffee and hidden gems in the city.
How to get there and around
Light rail, the Red Line
Central bus station to the Old City, Machane Yehuda, city center
- The most convenient way into the Old City: board at the central station and get off at the stop by Damascus Gate
- On the way it passes Machane Yehuda, Jaffa Road and Safra Square
- A transfer from a city bus to the light rail counts as the same ride within 90 minutes
- Runs in the evening too. Does not run on Shabbat and holidays
Train from the airport
Airport to Jerusalem (Yitzhak Navon)
- The fastest and most reliable way from the airport into the city
- Get off at Yitzhak Navon in the city center, and continue by light rail in any direction
Train from Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv to Jerusalem (Yitzhak Navon)
- Roughly every half hour, with no traffic on Route 1
- The light rail and city buses leave from the station to every part of the city
- Does not run on Shabbat
City buses
Every neighborhood, plus the Mount of Olives and Ein Kerem
- A good complement to the light rail for neighborhoods off the line
- On short rides you can change lines for free within 90 minutes
What to see
The Old City
Four quarters inside the walls: the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Via Dolorosa and the markets. Enter through Damascus Gate or Jaffa Gate.
Machane Yehuda market
Food, spices and places to sit. Get off at the Machane Yehuda light rail stop.
The Mount of Olives
The classic view over the Old City, especially towards sunset.
The museums
The Israel Museum, the Bible Lands Museum and the garden beside them, a full half day in one area.
Ein Kerem
A hilly, picturesque neighborhood with churches, monasteries and small restaurants.
The Ramparts walk
Walk along the Old City walls for a view from above, and finish in the markets below.
Good to know
The most convenient way into the Old City is the light rail from the central bus station: get off at the Damascus Gate stop and you are already at the gate.
On Friday afternoon and on Shabbat there is no light rail and no buses, and most shops in the Old City market are closed.
Coming from the airport, the train to Yitzhak Navon is the fast way, and line 485 is the fallback on Shabbat.
Small cash helps in the markets, and it also makes haggling easier.
Where to eat, drink and wander in Jerusalem
The places I actually take people to and go back to myself: hummus, street food, restaurants, cafes, culture and hidden gems, and nightlife. Each place comes with its price level and its tags.
Prices: $ inexpensive, $$ mid-range, $$$ a special occasion. Tap a recommendation to open it in Google Maps.
All the recommendations on one map
The markers are numbered in the same order as the list, and each category has its own colour. Tap a marker to read the description, the price and the tags, and open the place in Google Maps from there.
Hummus
Hummus Abu Kamel
An authentic gem in the Christian Quarter. Spacious, clean and perfect for a break inside the Old City.
Open in Google MapsHummus Ben Sira
A hummus bar in the city center with a young atmosphere.
Open in Google MapsHummus Arafat
Super-authentic hummus joint deep in the Old City. Come early: when the hummus runs out, they close.
Open in Google MapsLina Hummus
Excellent hummus and msabbaha in the heart of the Old City, a beloved stop for tourists and locals alike.
Open in Google MapsJerusalem street food
Machane Yehuda market tasting
Wander the alleys for halva, spices and falafel. An absolute must-do.
Open in Google MapsAricha Sabich
One of the best spots in town for sabich: a pita packed with fried eggplant, hard-boiled egg, tahini and amba. Fast, fresh and incredibly flavorful.
Open in Google MapsBurekas Haifa
A market classic for authentic, flaky savory pastries: cheese, potato or spinach.
Open in Google MapsSteakiat Hatzot
The legendary birthplace of the Jerusalem mixed grill, with an excellent meorav yerushalmi. Great meats on the go.
Open in Google MapsJafar Sweets
A legendary Old City institution, famous for some of the best kanafeh, baklava and mutabak in Jerusalem.
Open in Google MapsRachel BaSdera
Excellent kosher sandwiches, both meat and dairy options.
Open in Google MapsRestaurants
Rachmo
A legendary, no-frills traditional eatery serving hearty home-style dishes: hummus, kubbeh and slow-cooked stews. Very affordable and deeply authentic.
Open in Google MapsMachneyuda
Chef Assaf Granit's famous flagship. A culinary party with loud music and incredible food. Book ahead.
Open in Google MapsMona
Inside the historic Jerusalem Artists' House, one of the city's finest upscale restaurants. Perfect for an elegant, romantic dinner.
Open in Google MapsChakra
An elegant, long-standing chef restaurant with upscale seafood and meats.
Open in Google MapsPizza Flora
Recommended kosher pizzeria, widely considered one of the best pizzas in Jerusalem.
Open in Google MapsSteakiya
Celebrity chef Assaf Granit's kosher grill house. Pricey, but a true charcoal-grill meat experience.
Open in Google MapsPizza by Chakra
Highly recommended pizza from the Chakra restaurant family.
Open in Google MapsHaSadna
An excellent meat restaurant near the First Station complex. The complex itself has gotten a bit run-down, but the food is worth it.
Open in Google MapsTalbiye
A French-Mediterranean gourmet restaurant in the charming Talbiye neighborhood.
Open in Google MapsAzura
A legendary Jerusalem institution in the style of Rachmo: home-style stews, kubbeh and sofrito simmering on wicks. Kosher.
Open in Google MapsKarma
A beloved Ein Karem institution with generous portions and a lovely terrace.
Open in Google MapsBab al-Yemen
Authentic Yemenite restaurant with great food, cocktails and a special atmosphere.
Open in Google MapsCafes and bakeries
Cafe Kadosh
A Jerusalem symbol that feels like Paris. Meticulously crafted pastries, worth the wait.
Open in Google MapsShuk Cafe
An excellent, vibrant coffee shop right in the bustling market. Stop by and treat yourself to their fantastic affogato.
Open in Google MapsMarzipan Bakery
World-famous for gooey, chocolate-dripping rugelach straight from the oven. Take a pack and eat them somewhere beautiful.
Open in Google MapsCasual Cafe
A laid-back city center spot, perfect for morning coffee or a post-Shabbat hangout.
Open in Google MapsHaMiffal
An art complex in a restored historic building, with a young, bohemian and cool vibe.
Open in Google MapsLa Pâtisserie ABU SEIR
An elegant boutique patisserie with a unique backstory: after his Muslim family baked breads for many years, the son traveled to Paris to study pastry-making and returned to open a place that blends classic French technique with local flavors.
Open in Google MapsTmol Shilshom
A unique cafe that is also a bookstore, tucked into the alleys of Nachalat Shiva. A special experience.
Open in Google MapsOfaimme Farm Cafe
A kosher farm cafe with a rustic vibe, serving excellent food from the farm's own produce. Located in Hansen House, a beautiful historic building with a fascinating story. All branches: Hansen House, Israel Museum and Beit HaKerem.
Open in Google MapsCulture, views and hidden gems
Mishkenot Sha'ananim and the Windmill Winery
Picturesque historical alleys outside the Old City walls, with a local wine tasting room and panoramic views. Open Sunday to Thursday 10:00 to 17:30, Friday 9:30 to 14:00, closed on Shabbat and holidays.
Open in Google MapsNachlaot and Beer Sheva Street
A maze of quiet alleys next to the market. Grab a coffee and relax with a book on the magical Beer Sheva Street.
Open in Google MapsThe Austrian Hospice
A quiet piece of Vienna. Have an authentic strudel and pay 5 NIS for the spectacular rooftop view.
Open in Google MapsNotre Dame rooftop
Head up for a sunset drink or dinner and an unforgettable panoramic view of the Old City.
Open in Google MapsSergei's Courtyard
A secret garden in the Russian Compound, beautifully restored, with a restaurant open every day of the week.
Open in Google MapsEin Karem village
An ancient, picturesque village in the green hills. A charming neighborhood to wander through, home to the Church of the Visitation and Mary's Spring, but it can get crowded on Fridays.
Open in Google MapsChurch of the Visitation
One of Ein Karem's key sites, with a stunning panoramic view over the village and valley.
Open in Google MapsMary's Spring
The ancient spring at the heart of the village, around which Ein Karem's alleys grew.
Open in Google MapsWohl Rose Garden
A lovely rose garden near the Knesset, a peaceful spot to wander. Especially beautiful in spring when the roses bloom.
Open in Google MapsJerusalem Botanical Gardens
The Jerusalem Botanical Gardens - plants from around the world, geographical zones and a conservatory. Paid entry.
Open in Google MapsMachane Yisrael Garden
A small, charming garden in the historic Machane Yisrael neighborhood, next to the HaMiffal complex. A quiet spot to wander.
Open in Google MapsNightlife
Machane Yehuda market
The ultimate spot for bar-hopping, with loud music and a vibrant, young crowd.
Open in Google MapsGatsby Cocktail Room
A vintage 1920s-style speakeasy with fantastic mixology and a classy vibe. Book ahead.
Open in Google MapsSambation Cocktail Bar
Top-tier, creative cocktails in a stylish atmosphere.
Open in Google MapsThe Sira Pub
An underground pub with an alternative vibe, electronic music and a loyal local crowd.
Open in Google MapsWine Bar
A small, quality wine bar - perfect for sitting over a glass of wine in a cozy atmosphere.
Open in Google MapsJust so you know, I guide private tours all across Israel, from the quiet alleys of Jerusalem to the Dead Sea, the Sea of Galilee and beyond. If you ever need a guide for your next adventure, or simply have a question during your trip, I am always here to help.
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